15 Indigenous Artists to Know From This Year’s Santa Fe Indian Market
Vogue | August 17, 2022
Categories: news
August 17, 2022
Artist Elias Jade Not Afraid, left, with family and friendsPhotographed by June Canedo, Vogue, February 2021
Every year, the annual Santa Fe Indian Market transforms the city’s downtown plaza into one large shoppable marketplace, where the streets are lined with booths showcasing the works of Indigenous artists across North America. One can find one-of-a-kind pieces here—whether it’s textile work, jewelry, pottery, or fine art—while supporting authentic artisans who are carrying forward their tribe’s unique craftwork. This year also bears a special significance, as the market celebrates its 100th anniversary. To mark the impressive milestone, the event will be hosting more events, fashion shows, and parties more than ever before—all of which attendees are sure to dress their best for. (The market has a famously well-clad street style scene).
In addition to all of the artists selling their pieces in the marketplace, there will be two fashion shows this year spotlighting modern Indigenous design. The aim of the shows is to prove how Native design isn’t one singular aesthetic, but rather a beautifully diverse array of different styles. On Saturday, September 20th, the Gala will feature contemporary designers such as Korina Emmerich, Lesley Hampton, and Himikalas Pamela Baker; at Sunday’s Indigenous Fashion Show, veteran names such as Jamie Okuma, Orlando Dugi, and Lauren Good Day will debut their latest collections. It’s an overwhelming number of Indigenous talent jam-packed int one weekend—so below, Vogue highlights 15 artists to know who will be showcasing their work.
Jamie Okuma
The Luiseño-Shoshone-Bannock fashion artist is renowned for her ornate beadwork (her hand-beaded Christian Louboutin shoes have been displayed at museums such as the Smithsonian and the Metropolitan Museum of Art). Okuma also designs full ready-to-wear and couture collections, her striking designs often calling back to her tribe’s distinctive design motifs.
Orlando Dugi
The Navajo designer is known for his dazzling evening wear. His elegant gowns are often finished with hand-embroidery, beading, and crystal work, and his materials dyed using natural pigments.
Keri Ataumbi
The Kiowa fine jeweler and metalsmith’s designs exist between the delicate and the bold. Her latest collection features coral-drop earrings, sterling silver and diamond necklaces, and intaglio rings made of lapis, 18-karat gold, and of course, diamonds.
Rebekah Jarvey
The Chippewa-Cree-Blackfeet designer combines traditional elements—like ribbon work—with contemporary finishes—like denim. A recent men’s design also featured a traditional ribbon shirt with a bootleg Gucci monogram print overtop.
Lauren Good Day
The Arikara-Hidatsa-Blackfeet-Plains Cree designer is known for her printed textile work. Her original bold, colorful prints are applied onto a variety of pieces—from athletic wear to summer dresses and bags.
Himikalas Pamela Baker
Veteran designer Baker (MusqamaqwDzawada'enuxw-Kwaguith-Tlingit-Haida) often incorporates West Coast motifs into her work, including graphic Coast Salish prints applied onto elegant evening tops and dresses.
Jason Baerg
With his contemporary line Ayimach, the Cree-Métis designer—who also does paintings and large-scale art instillations—nods to his cultural background via his choice of colors and materials.
Korina Emmerich
The Puyallup designer’s signature work uses colorful Pendleton wools, which she will rework into statement coats, skirts, hats, gloves, and even masks.
Yolonda Skelton
The Gitxsan designer’s label, Suglit Lukxs Designs, offers a more contemporary take on her tribe’s traditional wear. She’ll incorporate imagery of coyotes, thunderbirds, and the moon onto a jacket made of Italian cashmere and silk.
Elias Jade Not Afraid
The Apsaalooké beadwork artist has won many ribbon awards at the Santa Fe Indian Market. His intricate work combines colorful beadwork with more unexpected details, such as spikes and skulls. He has also created beautiful cradle boards, one of which was recently purchased by the Met for its permanent collection.
Lesley Hampton
The Anishinaabe-Mohawk designer offers a full wardrobe—from athletic wear such as striped hoodies, to evening wear including rainbow-hued wrap skirts.
Pat Pruitt
The Laguna-Chiricahua-Apache-Anglo metal smith creates unique jewelry made of tougher materials such as zirconium, titanium, and stainless steel. He’ll juxtapose his materials against softer designers, such as his signature feather earrings.
Ursala Hudson
The Tlingit artist is known for her weaving work. She creates woven belts, statement collars, and earrings made out of merino-silk warp fringes.
Sho Sho Esquiro
Kaska-Dene-Cree artist Esquiro’s work has been displayed in museums (she recently had a solo exhibition at the Bill Reid Gallery in Vancouver, Canada). Her bold designs are often imbedded with a political message, such as her “No Apology Necessary” and “Idle No More” leather jackets.
Naiomi and Tyler Glasses
The Navajo siblings are both incredibly talent textile artists and weavers, specializing in graphic rugs that can take weeks—or months—to produce.